Klister in some circles brings not fear, but at least timidity.
Let us look at some ways to make application of Klister easier.
The first question you should ask yourself is, do you really need to use Klister? If there is a chance of any fresh snow being kicked out of the tracks, I would go with other possible waxing options.
However if there have been many freezes and thaws, the likelihood of having to use Klisters will be necessary. Before you start a few items might be handy. Some ski wax remover, throwaway gloves, sandwich bags for each individual klister, a CORK just for klister, fiberlene, some sandpaper around 80-100 grit, and of course klister for various temperatures.
Notice I do not mention, blow dryers, irons, and heat guns. Blow torches and the like are still in my wax kit, but never used for the past decade or two.
If you need to add more klister or need to change klister there is normally only one sure way to get the klister out. Take a tube of klister in a sandwich bag and put it next to your chest and continue to ski for 10 minutes or more. Stop klister your skis, CORK and continue. When you are a 2 hour ski from nowhere, you need to be able to apply klister. People in the past have tried using butane or other kinds of lighters but with mixed results. So cork klister.
I do not try to scrape klister, but immediately use ski wax remover. While mentioning wax remover, if it is older then 10 years, get rid of it. I read the ingredients of my old can it and it was very dangerous. After removing the old wax, sand the kick pocket. When you sand the wax pocket, the base klister will adhere much easier to the ski.
Like waxes, there are base klisters, and klisters for each temperature. There are also klisters for ice, wet falling snow, dirty snow, every form of corn and granular snow. In the Edmonton area we do not normally have use klister very often.I like silver klisters.
Open up a new klister container using the the cap which has a sharp point hidden in the top. A few of you tried using a dull ski pole tip and this did not work well. As I showed you the other night, grab the klister in a reverse grip to warm the klister. Take the top off with a quick scrape and quick turning motion. If you just lift it off you will have a long yucky sticky strand of klister.
Apply four or five small dabs of base klister on each side of the base of the ski, staying 10cm away from either end of the wax pocket. You then cork the klister
using very fast light strokes. You can easily move the klister to the end of the shortened wax pocket, which will likely be about a cm at each end. If you had too much klister, you can roll the klister back unto the base that went over the edge or in the groove.
You then set the skis outside to cool for a short period, before bringing the klister skis back inside to put a kicking klister on. After corking the next layer of kicking klister on, you went outside to try the klister. As expected, you found that loose snow had more grip, then the icy tracks. Just like waxing, you tried one or more layers of klister before going to a warmer klister. It was mentioned that if you try skiing through wet slush puddles to expect a quick slowing, and a telemark position will be more stable.
There are other ways to avoid klister. Various forms of waxless skis work very well in wet conditions. You can also add kick waxes over klister, if there is some newer snow in the ski tracks.
I also mentioned rilling your skis. Rilling your skis will get rid of moisture and allow your skis to glide faster. Depending on the amount of moisture, there are rill sizes for different snow conditions.
After your ski, be sure to either clean the skis or secure the skis with tape, or ski holders etc. Respect the klister as it is so sticky and gets on everything. It is ugly. Hand cleaner is also handy to have.
I failed to mention that there are skis that have rill like structure in factory skis which help dissapate water and give you better glide. Also there are klister skis that have a bit of a higher camber and a shorter wax pocket. Some waxless skis are very good in wet conditions and of course you get what you pay for.
Will add more as things come up.Well fresh new falling snow at -10C, is a very good reason, to strip off all the old klister and old wax.
Clean your skis, sand the kick area, and wax your glide area again. Fresh new snow is very much welcomed!! :)
Have fun, go ski, be safe.
Thursday, January 29, 2015
Tuesday, January 20, 2015
Nordic Skiing and Higher Speed Step Turns
Some of you are expressing being more comfortable on the downhill sections now, but still wanted some practice at more step turns.The trail conditions have gone from just about right, to quite hard, and getting an edge is at times a bit tricky.
Some of you also had wax that was grabbing at times, you were made aware of the possibility before class. It is always a compromise between grip and glide. Most all of you went with hard wax, but klister was working well too.
Standing still, we first practised standing upright, then into a high tuck with poles squeezed to your body and then into a lowered crouch with hands pushed low in front of you and arms naturally straight. This was practised at a quick pace, as called out, so that you could go quickly and comfortable from one position to another. If all else fails, a controlled fall is better then a wipe-out, and you are already close to the snow.
Coming down the hill, you scanned for others in front of you. You already had determined whether you were staying in the tracks or out of the tracks for the first portion of the downhill and were in a high tuck, after poling was of no more use for acceleration. Your elbows are squeezing the poles to your side, as you do not want poles flailing out. You are a hazard with those poles if you do not keep them under control, as faster skiers maybe trying to get past you. Do not be surprised if they slap your pole out of the way, to get past you.
As you approached the turn you use a braking snow plow of some form and stepped out of the tracks. You looked for some softer snow to edge on, and entered the corner under control, and at a speed that felt safe to you.
You bent at the knees and ankles and got lower to the ground, however do not bend at the waist. Keep those shoulders over the ankles. On the actual turn the hips are pushed to the inside of the turn, but your shoulders stayed over the flexed edged ski and ankle. That outside downhill leg is flexed, do not allow it to straighten and do not pull away from the turn.
Your hands stayed low, below the waist, and the downhill arm pumped forward and down which assisted in each quick step turn. This does take practice, but will benefit you greatly.
As soon as possible when finishing the turn, you go into the hippity hop, and then double poling, once your speed has slowed enough to use poles. You then have to decide if you are going directly in to the classic tracks or pole in the skating lane.
Short quick step turns are better then a few big step turns, because if your skis slip, you have a chance of recovering easier. Some of you may do stem christies or christies, but that too is slowing down and losing wax.
You normally go from the outside of the curve, to the inside of the curve, before drifting back to the outside again. Remember that the inside of the curve maybe soft, and have no base for your skis or poling action. Keep your eyes open at all times for debris as well.
A step turn is for acceleration, so keep that in mind! If you are snow plow turning, then you are losing your kick wax and slowing down!
In class tonight you also learned about taking different lines, going around the corners. You were encouraged to pass those in front of you. For those of you being passed, you just hold your line, be predictable, and do not panic. Those behind will pass as soon as they can. There were a few falls tonight, but that is part of the learning process that helps you learn, :)
Go Ski, have fun, be safe.
Some of you also had wax that was grabbing at times, you were made aware of the possibility before class. It is always a compromise between grip and glide. Most all of you went with hard wax, but klister was working well too.
Standing still, we first practised standing upright, then into a high tuck with poles squeezed to your body and then into a lowered crouch with hands pushed low in front of you and arms naturally straight. This was practised at a quick pace, as called out, so that you could go quickly and comfortable from one position to another. If all else fails, a controlled fall is better then a wipe-out, and you are already close to the snow.
Coming down the hill, you scanned for others in front of you. You already had determined whether you were staying in the tracks or out of the tracks for the first portion of the downhill and were in a high tuck, after poling was of no more use for acceleration. Your elbows are squeezing the poles to your side, as you do not want poles flailing out. You are a hazard with those poles if you do not keep them under control, as faster skiers maybe trying to get past you. Do not be surprised if they slap your pole out of the way, to get past you.
As you approached the turn you use a braking snow plow of some form and stepped out of the tracks. You looked for some softer snow to edge on, and entered the corner under control, and at a speed that felt safe to you.
You bent at the knees and ankles and got lower to the ground, however do not bend at the waist. Keep those shoulders over the ankles. On the actual turn the hips are pushed to the inside of the turn, but your shoulders stayed over the flexed edged ski and ankle. That outside downhill leg is flexed, do not allow it to straighten and do not pull away from the turn.
Your hands stayed low, below the waist, and the downhill arm pumped forward and down which assisted in each quick step turn. This does take practice, but will benefit you greatly.
As soon as possible when finishing the turn, you go into the hippity hop, and then double poling, once your speed has slowed enough to use poles. You then have to decide if you are going directly in to the classic tracks or pole in the skating lane.
Short quick step turns are better then a few big step turns, because if your skis slip, you have a chance of recovering easier. Some of you may do stem christies or christies, but that too is slowing down and losing wax.
You normally go from the outside of the curve, to the inside of the curve, before drifting back to the outside again. Remember that the inside of the curve maybe soft, and have no base for your skis or poling action. Keep your eyes open at all times for debris as well.
A step turn is for acceleration, so keep that in mind! If you are snow plow turning, then you are losing your kick wax and slowing down!
In class tonight you also learned about taking different lines, going around the corners. You were encouraged to pass those in front of you. For those of you being passed, you just hold your line, be predictable, and do not panic. Those behind will pass as soon as they can. There were a few falls tonight, but that is part of the learning process that helps you learn, :)
Go Ski, have fun, be safe.
Tuesday, January 13, 2015
Nordic Skiing Climbing Technique Part 2
Climbing is helped tremendously by a great power to weight ratio. Racing weight is tough to achieve however. How do you know when you are close to racing weight? For the man you first will have ripped legs, then the 6 pack will show and then finally corded muscles on the butt, if flexed.
The female racer will first have a 6 pack, then ripped legs. Hopefully you can lift the skin off the leg, with a cm., and no more between your fingers.
If you can maintain a healthy weight of say five pounds over racing weight the rest of the season, staying healthy and uninjured, that’s great.
You tested your wax before the class, and made sure that you had spare wax both a warmer and softer wax in your pocket, in case you were slipping or sticking. Climbing is a trade off between good grip vs good glide. No two people will agree.
You learned what it is like to climb in close quarters of each other. Being able to pass is a learned craft. You will encounter people who will be in front of you that are far slower and you must learn to get past them easily with next to no effort.
Slower class mates make for learning how to pass, and small loops keeps the practice coming.
That's why narrow running herringbone's and running diagonal side step are so important. Learning to diagonal straight up where others switch to a slower gear, is a time saver, too. However think of the long race and save your arms, where needed for the whole race.
Now as racers techniques change, some are now going with no kick wax and they just double pole everything. Be sure to do a lot of practice before you try this approach in a race. The Birkie is a roller coaster course, so you can gain a lot of distance up a hill before you have to even double pole.
Of course what goes up must come down.
Many times you came down the same hill around the curve, looking for the tracks. Each time your speed was a bit quicker. Your legs were bent more, hands stayed out low and in front, and you snow ploughed less. High speed step turns rather then slowing down was the norm. There were people in front of you going down, and your fellow students were trying to beat you, as you skied down side by side. There were people coming up on the side of the trail at the same time and it was mostly dark, due to some lights being burnt out. Screams of fright the first time, and then concentration came after that.
High speed tuck turns comes with lots of practice. Keep those feet moving quickly.
Always be thinking, looking ahead, and tell your heart rate to drop. Breathe normally trying not to hyperventilate. :)
You were encouraged to FEEL where the fastest snow is. Does the snow have the fastest glide in the classic tracks, pole tracks, centre or the right far side of skate tracks, all the while watching for other skiers. You were told to practice drafting which is still uncomfortable for some of you. Staying within a half a ski or closer is what you need to learn. Always check your shoulders before changing your line!
Well the snow is melting and will become slower for a few days. Consider rilling your skis if you want, as it will be faster in the soaking wet snow.
Have fun, be safe, go ski.
Monday, December 29, 2014
Nordic Ski Climbing Strategies
Some points that were covered during the holidays, that you might have missed.
You learned the high speed step turn and were encouraged to use the step turn rather then the snow plow for going around corners. Look for that worn skied in grooved step turn that only goes the length of your ski. There will likely be 2 or 3 of those on a corner. Use them and think attack and accelerate out of the corner.
On some sharp 90' or more severe corners, there maybe painted areas where it is fair game to skate. Keep in mind you cannot not skate in the Birkie, unless it is so indicated.
Double pole as much as you can, everywhere, unless it is no longer practical.
When using the running herringbone, use a flat ski and kick wax, and not the edge, until you absolutely have to use an edge. A flat ski is faster and will not wear the wax off as quickly.
On a side slope as you are climbing, you can edge into the hill if need be, when using the the running diagonal side step or the diagonal.
Keep the your hands low and plant the pole baskets a bit further back, when using the herringbone. Keep the shoulders over your ankles and the head up. if you lean to far forwards you will slip. Recover the skis under your body, and do not get too wide. Watch your ski tips, and do not let them get caught in the snow edges.
You also learned where to look for grip. You must think, think, think, about where the grip is, and where the glide is. Jump out of the tracks and try the pole tracks or where the snow was protected from the sun. There are 9 areas at least, to look for grip and glide on a double set of tracks. Check out all the areas and remember that there are many factors that could change your evaluation.
Some of those factors would include sunshine, wind, how much it has been skied in, humidity, cloud cover, temperature change, more snow, blowing snow, grooming of the snow, your ski structure, how much wax you have left, dirt, leaves, pine needles, ice, etc., etc. Do NOT ski on automatic pilot. Know where the best snow is, for any given ski movement.
Do not follow blindly where someone else is skiing, because their skis could be totally different set-up for grip and glide.
Going downhill you were reminded to push your knees over your toes, hands stay low, shoulders over the ankles, stay in the ready position.
Do not let your hands go high or let your legs straighten. Remember the image of holding a tray in front of you or the bicycle handlebars.
When you are turning, keep the shoulder over the downhill edged ski, with the hips inside the edged ski.
If there is a hump on the uphill caused by the groomers for skaters, keep the belly button in the centre of the hump. Once again use a flat ski and not an edge unless needed.
Try not to muscle up the hill with the upper body, when climbing in the diagonal. At a certain point and only you will know it, go to half herringbone or jump out of the tracks and try to find grip doing the diagonal, before going to a running herringbone.
Remember to double pole, and single kick double pole uphill before going into the diagonal. The speed of the snow will determine what you use. One day it maybe double poling, the next day herringbone!?
Increase your tempo on the uphills! The hills on the Birkie course are roller coasters and are not more then a minute of climbing, so apply more energy accordingly.
Try to carry as much speed into the uphill as possible.
When and if things go south on you, it is better to have a controlled fall, rather then a wipeout. Do not take chances, it is better to be safe then sorry.
Sometimes you have look some distance ahead, both on the trail and in your skiing life.
In the old days we were always told that most racing courses are a third up, and third down, and a third flat. However 50% of your time is spent climbing, so you must do a lot of hill climbing. I wait for other research to tell me that the % of climbing time has changed. The courses and skis are far faster now so we will see.
Next week the hill learning will continue.
Go ski, have fun, be safe!
You learned the high speed step turn and were encouraged to use the step turn rather then the snow plow for going around corners. Look for that worn skied in grooved step turn that only goes the length of your ski. There will likely be 2 or 3 of those on a corner. Use them and think attack and accelerate out of the corner.
On some sharp 90' or more severe corners, there maybe painted areas where it is fair game to skate. Keep in mind you cannot not skate in the Birkie, unless it is so indicated.
Double pole as much as you can, everywhere, unless it is no longer practical.
When using the running herringbone, use a flat ski and kick wax, and not the edge, until you absolutely have to use an edge. A flat ski is faster and will not wear the wax off as quickly.
On a side slope as you are climbing, you can edge into the hill if need be, when using the the running diagonal side step or the diagonal.
Keep the your hands low and plant the pole baskets a bit further back, when using the herringbone. Keep the shoulders over your ankles and the head up. if you lean to far forwards you will slip. Recover the skis under your body, and do not get too wide. Watch your ski tips, and do not let them get caught in the snow edges.
You also learned where to look for grip. You must think, think, think, about where the grip is, and where the glide is. Jump out of the tracks and try the pole tracks or where the snow was protected from the sun. There are 9 areas at least, to look for grip and glide on a double set of tracks. Check out all the areas and remember that there are many factors that could change your evaluation.
Some of those factors would include sunshine, wind, how much it has been skied in, humidity, cloud cover, temperature change, more snow, blowing snow, grooming of the snow, your ski structure, how much wax you have left, dirt, leaves, pine needles, ice, etc., etc. Do NOT ski on automatic pilot. Know where the best snow is, for any given ski movement.
Do not follow blindly where someone else is skiing, because their skis could be totally different set-up for grip and glide.
Going downhill you were reminded to push your knees over your toes, hands stay low, shoulders over the ankles, stay in the ready position.
Do not let your hands go high or let your legs straighten. Remember the image of holding a tray in front of you or the bicycle handlebars.
When you are turning, keep the shoulder over the downhill edged ski, with the hips inside the edged ski.
If there is a hump on the uphill caused by the groomers for skaters, keep the belly button in the centre of the hump. Once again use a flat ski and not an edge unless needed.
Try not to muscle up the hill with the upper body, when climbing in the diagonal. At a certain point and only you will know it, go to half herringbone or jump out of the tracks and try to find grip doing the diagonal, before going to a running herringbone.
Remember to double pole, and single kick double pole uphill before going into the diagonal. The speed of the snow will determine what you use. One day it maybe double poling, the next day herringbone!?
Increase your tempo on the uphills! The hills on the Birkie course are roller coasters and are not more then a minute of climbing, so apply more energy accordingly.
Try to carry as much speed into the uphill as possible.
When and if things go south on you, it is better to have a controlled fall, rather then a wipeout. Do not take chances, it is better to be safe then sorry.
Sometimes you have look some distance ahead, both on the trail and in your skiing life.
In the old days we were always told that most racing courses are a third up, and third down, and a third flat. However 50% of your time is spent climbing, so you must do a lot of hill climbing. I wait for other research to tell me that the % of climbing time has changed. The courses and skis are far faster now so we will see.
Next week the hill learning will continue.
Go ski, have fun, be safe!
Friday, December 12, 2014
Nordic Skiing and Single Kick Double Pole Tidbits
Mastery of this technique indicates that you learned balance on your skis. If need be, review your double poling and classic skiing again.
So let's try to remember some of the points that were covered in class today.
We started off inside, learning the static position and timing of this movement.
KICK, GLIDE, POLE, GLIDE!! That is the mantra that is needed, to learn the timing correctly.
Out on the grid with a slight downhill you learned how to single kick without poles. Imagery included being a tree hugger or a orchestra conductor. You tried to say chop,chop or sing a few notes of a song while in the extended position. You diagonal strided on the way up, and and single kicked double poled, on the way back, both without poles.
Next the poles were added to the mix. The familiar mantra of hips behind the ankles, over the ankles, and ahead of the ankles were constantly emphasized.
The imagery of a strong rubber band being connected between the elbow and the hip was relearned. If the bent elbows (at least 90') comes forward, then the hips are pulled forward too! Do not think of reaching forward with the hands. Think of your elbows going forward, then down and back, with the hands pulling on the back of the ski pole straps as you transfer body weight, and then power into the snow. That is why you must adjust the pole straps properly.
The ability to be on one leg with hips coming forward ahead of the ankles, with both the other leg and elbows stretched out, requires you to be well balanced. If this cannot be mastered, it is best to start from scratch again, with one ski and no poles.
Other imagery used, was to stretch your stomach muscles, and squeeze the Toonie with the butt cheeks, to help with hips coming forward. A stretched tummy will crunch stronger, as well pulling the hips ahead.
I recommend hips coming forward as elbows come forward, so there is not an actual standing straight up phase, as people tend to arch their back and get back pain.
During the glide phase weight goes to the heels, for a short period of time.
You explode when the kick and poles contact snow, and RELAX when you are outstretched in the glide positions. Its only when the body parts are extended, that the lactic acid can be flushed out of your system. There must be a relaxed phase. even if its just for a moment.
Have Fun, Go Ski!!
So let's try to remember some of the points that were covered in class today.
We started off inside, learning the static position and timing of this movement.
KICK, GLIDE, POLE, GLIDE!! That is the mantra that is needed, to learn the timing correctly.
Out on the grid with a slight downhill you learned how to single kick without poles. Imagery included being a tree hugger or a orchestra conductor. You tried to say chop,chop or sing a few notes of a song while in the extended position. You diagonal strided on the way up, and and single kicked double poled, on the way back, both without poles.
Next the poles were added to the mix. The familiar mantra of hips behind the ankles, over the ankles, and ahead of the ankles were constantly emphasized.
The imagery of a strong rubber band being connected between the elbow and the hip was relearned. If the bent elbows (at least 90') comes forward, then the hips are pulled forward too! Do not think of reaching forward with the hands. Think of your elbows going forward, then down and back, with the hands pulling on the back of the ski pole straps as you transfer body weight, and then power into the snow. That is why you must adjust the pole straps properly.
The ability to be on one leg with hips coming forward ahead of the ankles, with both the other leg and elbows stretched out, requires you to be well balanced. If this cannot be mastered, it is best to start from scratch again, with one ski and no poles.
Other imagery used, was to stretch your stomach muscles, and squeeze the Toonie with the butt cheeks, to help with hips coming forward. A stretched tummy will crunch stronger, as well pulling the hips ahead.
I recommend hips coming forward as elbows come forward, so there is not an actual standing straight up phase, as people tend to arch their back and get back pain.
During the glide phase weight goes to the heels, for a short period of time.
You explode when the kick and poles contact snow, and RELAX when you are outstretched in the glide positions. Its only when the body parts are extended, that the lactic acid can be flushed out of your system. There must be a relaxed phase. even if its just for a moment.
Have Fun, Go Ski!!
Monday, December 1, 2014
Nordic Skiing and Waxing Notes from last night.
Lets start from scratch. I have a pair of skis that has not been used or waxed in a few years.
The glide area did not have any storage wax on it. Oh no!! haha. (Do as I say not as I do.)
So use some ski wax remover, and clean both glide area and kick area. Use a plastic scraper to scrape wax off in kick area before using wax remover. There are many wax companies like Swix and Toko that show you how to do this, or find it on YouTube.
Roughen up the area under the kick area with some silicon 100+/- grit sand paper and clean the kick area again.
Make sure you wait 20 minutes for the properties of the wax remover, to evaporate.
Fibertex using several passes, from tip to tail on the glide areas. Hot wax the glide area area with the appropriate wax of the day, which was Swix CH4 last night. That wax is brittle, so keep your mouth closed and and kind of squish it down with iron till the wax is warmed up. Feel the top portion of the ski to make sure it is warmed up enough, which normally takes 4 or 5 passes. If the wax is smoking it is way too hot, stop and turn it down, though you will need the iron to be hotter then other warmer waxes.
Never hot wax the kick area, use polar wax if you are going to skate, in the kick area.
Let the skis lay in a horizontal position for at least an hour inside, as gravity does it work. Scrape the groove and side of the ski first.
After an hour or so, scrape the base of the skis, then brush scrape a few more times with a plastic scraper. Finish up with a nylon brush, though I like using a horse hair brush. There are combo brushes of various kinds that you can buy at the local store.
Now onto the kick area. Crayon some base wax like Swix VG35 or Toko Green and use a clean iron or hair dryer to warm it up and cork it in. It is a good idea to have some specific corks for klister, base wax, hard wax and soft wax. Apply the wax of the day, which in this case last night was green.
If you have new skis, I recommend hot waxing after every ski, as a base guideline for the first 8-10 skis. You want to get all the little micro holes filled up with wax. A wax box is supposed to do this as well, but I am not sure about that.
If you want, you can leave the skis outside, to cool before a final scrape/brushing as the cold will squish out a bit more wax as the base contracts.
Waxing can become, Very Expensive, if you let it. However around the #yeg area you can get away with a cost of less then a $150.
A few kick waxes, base binder, universal glider, universal silver klister, some baggies, ski wax remover, scraper or two, fibertex, some corks, a roll of blue paper towels, hair dryer and an old iron will suffice.
I can normally do my skis during commercials of a one hour TV program. :)
Not sure what wax to use? Read directions on the cannister or download the app from Swix, turn on the WiFi, and it will get locate you and the weather where you are, for simple or advanced waxing. The app now has the directions in English, though not the videos which are still in Norwegian. snow
As a rough rule of thumb wax at least 4 degrees warmer as the thee snow gets old and the tracks get skied in.
Go ski a click or two and have your wax tested before class starts.
Go out and ski, and have FUN.
The glide area did not have any storage wax on it. Oh no!! haha. (Do as I say not as I do.)
So use some ski wax remover, and clean both glide area and kick area. Use a plastic scraper to scrape wax off in kick area before using wax remover. There are many wax companies like Swix and Toko that show you how to do this, or find it on YouTube.
Roughen up the area under the kick area with some silicon 100+/- grit sand paper and clean the kick area again.
Make sure you wait 20 minutes for the properties of the wax remover, to evaporate.
Fibertex using several passes, from tip to tail on the glide areas. Hot wax the glide area area with the appropriate wax of the day, which was Swix CH4 last night. That wax is brittle, so keep your mouth closed and and kind of squish it down with iron till the wax is warmed up. Feel the top portion of the ski to make sure it is warmed up enough, which normally takes 4 or 5 passes. If the wax is smoking it is way too hot, stop and turn it down, though you will need the iron to be hotter then other warmer waxes.
Never hot wax the kick area, use polar wax if you are going to skate, in the kick area.
Let the skis lay in a horizontal position for at least an hour inside, as gravity does it work. Scrape the groove and side of the ski first.
After an hour or so, scrape the base of the skis, then brush scrape a few more times with a plastic scraper. Finish up with a nylon brush, though I like using a horse hair brush. There are combo brushes of various kinds that you can buy at the local store.
Now onto the kick area. Crayon some base wax like Swix VG35 or Toko Green and use a clean iron or hair dryer to warm it up and cork it in. It is a good idea to have some specific corks for klister, base wax, hard wax and soft wax. Apply the wax of the day, which in this case last night was green.
If you have new skis, I recommend hot waxing after every ski, as a base guideline for the first 8-10 skis. You want to get all the little micro holes filled up with wax. A wax box is supposed to do this as well, but I am not sure about that.
If you want, you can leave the skis outside, to cool before a final scrape/brushing as the cold will squish out a bit more wax as the base contracts.
Waxing can become, Very Expensive, if you let it. However around the #yeg area you can get away with a cost of less then a $150.
A few kick waxes, base binder, universal glider, universal silver klister, some baggies, ski wax remover, scraper or two, fibertex, some corks, a roll of blue paper towels, hair dryer and an old iron will suffice.
I can normally do my skis during commercials of a one hour TV program. :)
Not sure what wax to use? Read directions on the cannister or download the app from Swix, turn on the WiFi, and it will get locate you and the weather where you are, for simple or advanced waxing. The app now has the directions in English, though not the videos which are still in Norwegian. snow
As a rough rule of thumb wax at least 4 degrees warmer as the thee snow gets old and the tracks get skied in.
Go ski a click or two and have your wax tested before class starts.
Go out and ski, and have FUN.
Nordic Skiing Class notes, Adding poles to Diagonal skiing
As you all know it was very cold, around -40c with wind chill, for the past few days with lots of snow.
Class temperature was fine with -18C, close to the trees, and out of the wind.
Last nights class was about a half hour of skiing, and then a wax clinic.
After reviewing last weeks skiing where you were classical skiing with no poles, you finally had the poles added.
Remember once again that "POLES ARE FOR PUSH, not for balance.
Your arms and legs work in opposites. (ie right ski forward, left arm forward)
Pull down on the pole straps and do not grip the pole handle tightly. Be sure to have the pole straps adjusted properly, which will vary depending on the mitts/gloves you are using.
Some of you had to be reminded that the pole baskets plant close to your weighted foot, and only about 10cm away from the ski track on the opposite side. At times I have put my pole tips into my skis, many decades ago, as I practiced keeping the pole baskets planting close. I still keep some nail polish(pink) in the wax kit, for filling in a ski pole hole or for marking a wax pocket. (LOL)
Tripoding is wasted movement and energy, that is not all going forward. Hands should be shoulder width apart, with a elbows slightly wider, depending on how strong your rotator cuff muscles are. Be careful and gradually widen your elbows over time. Your pole baskets should NOT be planted really wide, the baskets do not swing forward past your hand, but should always be angled backwards when you plant.
Look in the snow where the pole tracks are, and you will get a better idea as to where you are planting your pole baskets. Get a coach or friend to watch as well, if you want.
Your reach forward with the poles, from the rotating shoulder, as you bring the elbow from the trunk, forward, at around 90 degrees. Normally you can get at least a fist in between your chest and elbow, as you reach forward. After loading poles with a slight drop of body weight, your LATS come into play, driving the poles down and backwards, with elbows staying bent and the hands coming to about your hip bone, before it is time to reach forward again. You should feel a pull in the chest muscles as well. This is where all those pull-ups that you have done during the summer will be evident. :)
There should be next to NO triceps being used.
Try to remember your pole assisted glide.
Naturally all this arm motion will need to be coordinated, with well balanced legs. :)
If all goes well we will be doing the single kick double pole, which is hard to master, if you do not have the double pole and the classical ski, mastered well.
Till next time.
Have FUN, go ski.
Class temperature was fine with -18C, close to the trees, and out of the wind.
Last nights class was about a half hour of skiing, and then a wax clinic.
After reviewing last weeks skiing where you were classical skiing with no poles, you finally had the poles added.
Remember once again that "POLES ARE FOR PUSH, not for balance.
Your arms and legs work in opposites. (ie right ski forward, left arm forward)
Pull down on the pole straps and do not grip the pole handle tightly. Be sure to have the pole straps adjusted properly, which will vary depending on the mitts/gloves you are using.
Some of you had to be reminded that the pole baskets plant close to your weighted foot, and only about 10cm away from the ski track on the opposite side. At times I have put my pole tips into my skis, many decades ago, as I practiced keeping the pole baskets planting close. I still keep some nail polish(pink) in the wax kit, for filling in a ski pole hole or for marking a wax pocket. (LOL)
Tripoding is wasted movement and energy, that is not all going forward. Hands should be shoulder width apart, with a elbows slightly wider, depending on how strong your rotator cuff muscles are. Be careful and gradually widen your elbows over time. Your pole baskets should NOT be planted really wide, the baskets do not swing forward past your hand, but should always be angled backwards when you plant.
Look in the snow where the pole tracks are, and you will get a better idea as to where you are planting your pole baskets. Get a coach or friend to watch as well, if you want.
Your reach forward with the poles, from the rotating shoulder, as you bring the elbow from the trunk, forward, at around 90 degrees. Normally you can get at least a fist in between your chest and elbow, as you reach forward. After loading poles with a slight drop of body weight, your LATS come into play, driving the poles down and backwards, with elbows staying bent and the hands coming to about your hip bone, before it is time to reach forward again. You should feel a pull in the chest muscles as well. This is where all those pull-ups that you have done during the summer will be evident. :)
There should be next to NO triceps being used.
Try to remember your pole assisted glide.
Naturally all this arm motion will need to be coordinated, with well balanced legs. :)
If all goes well we will be doing the single kick double pole, which is hard to master, if you do not have the double pole and the classical ski, mastered well.
Till next time.
Have FUN, go ski.
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