Nordic Skiing and Getting the Upperhand on Klister

Klister in some circles brings not fear, but at least timidity.

Let us look at some ways to make application of Klister easier.

The first question you should ask yourself is, do you really need to use Klister? If there is a chance of any fresh snow being kicked out of the tracks, I would go with other possible waxing options.

However if there have been many freezes and thaws, the likelihood of having to use Klisters will be necessary. Before you start a few items might be handy. Some ski wax remover, throwaway gloves, sandwich bags for each individual klister, a CORK just for klister, fiberlene, some sandpaper around 80-100 grit, and of course klister for various temperatures.
Notice I do not mention, blow dryers, irons, and heat guns. Blow torches and the like are still in my wax kit, but never used for the past decade or two.

If you need to add more klister or need to change klister there is normally only one sure way to get the klister out. Take a tube of klister in a sandwich bag and put it next to your chest and continue to ski for 10 minutes or more. Stop klister your skis, CORK and continue. When you are a 2 hour ski from nowhere, you need to be able to apply klister. People in the past have tried using butane or other kinds of lighters but with mixed results. So cork klister.

I do not try to scrape klister, but immediately use ski wax remover. While mentioning wax remover, if it is older then 10 years, get rid of it. I read the ingredients of my old can it and it was very dangerous. After removing the old wax, sand the kick pocket. When you sand the wax pocket, the base klister will adhere much easier to the ski.

Like waxes, there are base klisters, and klisters for each temperature. There are also klisters for ice, wet falling snow, dirty snow, every form of corn and granular snow. In the Edmonton area we do not normally have use klister very often.I like silver klisters.

Open up a new klister container using the the cap which has a sharp point hidden in the top. A few of you tried using a dull ski pole tip and this did not work well. As I showed you the other night, grab the klister in a reverse grip to warm the klister. Take the top off with a quick scrape and quick turning motion. If you just lift it off you will have a long yucky sticky strand of klister.

Apply four or five small dabs of base klister on each side of the base of the ski, staying 10cm  away from either end of the wax pocket. You then cork the klister
using very fast light strokes. You can easily move the klister to the end of the shortened wax pocket, which will likely be about a cm at each end. If you had too much klister, you can roll the klister back unto the base that went over the edge or in the groove.

You then set the skis outside to cool for a short period, before bringing the klister skis back inside to put a kicking klister on. After corking the next layer of kicking klister on, you went outside to try the klister. As expected, you found that loose snow had more grip, then the icy tracks. Just like waxing, you tried one or more layers of klister before going to a warmer klister. It was mentioned that if you try skiing through wet slush puddles to expect a quick slowing, and a telemark position will be more stable.

There are other ways to avoid klister. Various forms of waxless skis work very well in wet conditions. You can also add kick waxes over klister, if there is some newer snow in the ski tracks.
I also mentioned rilling your skis. Rilling your skis will get rid of moisture and allow your skis to glide faster. Depending on the amount of moisture, there are rill sizes for different snow conditions.

After your ski, be sure to either clean the skis or secure the skis with tape, or ski holders etc. Respect the klister as it is so sticky and gets on everything. It is ugly. Hand cleaner is also handy to have.

I failed to mention that there are skis that have rill like structure in factory skis which help dissapate water and give you better glide. Also there are klister skis that have a bit of a higher camber and a shorter wax pocket. Some waxless skis are very good in wet conditions and of course you get what you pay for.

Will add more as things come up.Well fresh new falling snow at -10C, is a very good reason, to strip off all the old klister and old wax.
Clean your skis, sand the kick area, and wax your glide area again. Fresh new snow is very much welcomed!!  :)

Have fun, go ski, be safe.