Some points that were covered during the holidays, that you might have missed.
You learned the high speed step turn and were encouraged to use the step turn rather then the snow plow for going around corners. Look for that worn skied in grooved step turn that only goes the length of your ski. There will likely be 2 or 3 of those on a corner. Use them and think attack and accelerate out of the corner.
On some sharp 90' or more severe corners, there maybe painted areas where it is fair game to skate. Keep in mind you cannot not skate in the Birkie, unless it is so indicated.
Double pole as much as you can, everywhere, unless it is no longer practical.
When using the running herringbone, use a flat ski and kick wax, and not the edge, until you absolutely have to use an edge. A flat ski is faster and will not wear the wax off as quickly.
On a side slope as you are climbing, you can edge into the hill if need be, when using the the running diagonal side step or the diagonal.
Keep the your hands low and plant the pole baskets a bit further back, when using the herringbone. Keep the shoulders over your ankles and the head up. if you lean to far forwards you will slip. Recover the skis under your body, and do not get too wide. Watch your ski tips, and do not let them get caught in the snow edges.
You also learned where to look for grip. You must think, think, think, about where the grip is, and where the glide is. Jump out of the tracks and try the pole tracks or where the snow was protected from the sun. There are 9 areas at least, to look for grip and glide on a double set of tracks. Check out all the areas and remember that there are many factors that could change your evaluation.
Some of those factors would include sunshine, wind, how much it has been skied in, humidity, cloud cover, temperature change, more snow, blowing snow, grooming of the snow, your ski structure, how much wax you have left, dirt, leaves, pine needles, ice, etc., etc. Do NOT ski on automatic pilot. Know where the best snow is, for any given ski movement.
Do not follow blindly where someone else is skiing, because their skis could be totally different set-up for grip and glide.
Going downhill you were reminded to push your knees over your toes, hands stay low, shoulders over the ankles, stay in the ready position.
Do not let your hands go high or let your legs straighten. Remember the image of holding a tray in front of you or the bicycle handlebars.
When you are turning, keep the shoulder over the downhill edged ski, with the hips inside the edged ski.
If there is a hump on the uphill caused by the groomers for skaters, keep the belly button in the centre of the hump. Once again use a flat ski and not an edge unless needed.
Try not to muscle up the hill with the upper body, when climbing in the diagonal. At a certain point and only you will know it, go to half herringbone or jump out of the tracks and try to find grip doing the diagonal, before going to a running herringbone.
Remember to double pole, and single kick double pole uphill before going into the diagonal. The speed of the snow will determine what you use. One day it maybe double poling, the next day herringbone!?
Increase your tempo on the uphills! The hills on the Birkie course are roller coasters and are not more then a minute of climbing, so apply more energy accordingly.
Try to carry as much speed into the uphill as possible.
When and if things go south on you, it is better to have a controlled fall, rather then a wipeout. Do not take chances, it is better to be safe then sorry.
Sometimes you have look some distance ahead, both on the trail and in your skiing life.
In the old days we were always told that most racing courses are a third up, and third down, and a third flat. However 50% of your time is spent climbing, so you must do a lot of hill climbing. I wait for other research to tell me that the % of climbing time has changed. The courses and skis are far faster now so we will see.
Next week the hill learning will continue.
Go ski, have fun, be safe!
Monday, December 29, 2014
Friday, December 12, 2014
Nordic Skiing and Single Kick Double Pole Tidbits
Mastery of this technique indicates that you learned balance on your skis. If need be, review your double poling and classic skiing again.
So let's try to remember some of the points that were covered in class today.
We started off inside, learning the static position and timing of this movement.
KICK, GLIDE, POLE, GLIDE!! That is the mantra that is needed, to learn the timing correctly.
Out on the grid with a slight downhill you learned how to single kick without poles. Imagery included being a tree hugger or a orchestra conductor. You tried to say chop,chop or sing a few notes of a song while in the extended position. You diagonal strided on the way up, and and single kicked double poled, on the way back, both without poles.
Next the poles were added to the mix. The familiar mantra of hips behind the ankles, over the ankles, and ahead of the ankles were constantly emphasized.
The imagery of a strong rubber band being connected between the elbow and the hip was relearned. If the bent elbows (at least 90') comes forward, then the hips are pulled forward too! Do not think of reaching forward with the hands. Think of your elbows going forward, then down and back, with the hands pulling on the back of the ski pole straps as you transfer body weight, and then power into the snow. That is why you must adjust the pole straps properly.
The ability to be on one leg with hips coming forward ahead of the ankles, with both the other leg and elbows stretched out, requires you to be well balanced. If this cannot be mastered, it is best to start from scratch again, with one ski and no poles.
Other imagery used, was to stretch your stomach muscles, and squeeze the Toonie with the butt cheeks, to help with hips coming forward. A stretched tummy will crunch stronger, as well pulling the hips ahead.
I recommend hips coming forward as elbows come forward, so there is not an actual standing straight up phase, as people tend to arch their back and get back pain.
During the glide phase weight goes to the heels, for a short period of time.
You explode when the kick and poles contact snow, and RELAX when you are outstretched in the glide positions. Its only when the body parts are extended, that the lactic acid can be flushed out of your system. There must be a relaxed phase. even if its just for a moment.
Have Fun, Go Ski!!
So let's try to remember some of the points that were covered in class today.
We started off inside, learning the static position and timing of this movement.
KICK, GLIDE, POLE, GLIDE!! That is the mantra that is needed, to learn the timing correctly.
Out on the grid with a slight downhill you learned how to single kick without poles. Imagery included being a tree hugger or a orchestra conductor. You tried to say chop,chop or sing a few notes of a song while in the extended position. You diagonal strided on the way up, and and single kicked double poled, on the way back, both without poles.
Next the poles were added to the mix. The familiar mantra of hips behind the ankles, over the ankles, and ahead of the ankles were constantly emphasized.
The imagery of a strong rubber band being connected between the elbow and the hip was relearned. If the bent elbows (at least 90') comes forward, then the hips are pulled forward too! Do not think of reaching forward with the hands. Think of your elbows going forward, then down and back, with the hands pulling on the back of the ski pole straps as you transfer body weight, and then power into the snow. That is why you must adjust the pole straps properly.
The ability to be on one leg with hips coming forward ahead of the ankles, with both the other leg and elbows stretched out, requires you to be well balanced. If this cannot be mastered, it is best to start from scratch again, with one ski and no poles.
Other imagery used, was to stretch your stomach muscles, and squeeze the Toonie with the butt cheeks, to help with hips coming forward. A stretched tummy will crunch stronger, as well pulling the hips ahead.
I recommend hips coming forward as elbows come forward, so there is not an actual standing straight up phase, as people tend to arch their back and get back pain.
During the glide phase weight goes to the heels, for a short period of time.
You explode when the kick and poles contact snow, and RELAX when you are outstretched in the glide positions. Its only when the body parts are extended, that the lactic acid can be flushed out of your system. There must be a relaxed phase. even if its just for a moment.
Have Fun, Go Ski!!
Monday, December 1, 2014
Nordic Skiing and Waxing Notes from last night.
Lets start from scratch. I have a pair of skis that has not been used or waxed in a few years.
The glide area did not have any storage wax on it. Oh no!! haha. (Do as I say not as I do.)
So use some ski wax remover, and clean both glide area and kick area. Use a plastic scraper to scrape wax off in kick area before using wax remover. There are many wax companies like Swix and Toko that show you how to do this, or find it on YouTube.
Roughen up the area under the kick area with some silicon 100+/- grit sand paper and clean the kick area again.
Make sure you wait 20 minutes for the properties of the wax remover, to evaporate.
Fibertex using several passes, from tip to tail on the glide areas. Hot wax the glide area area with the appropriate wax of the day, which was Swix CH4 last night. That wax is brittle, so keep your mouth closed and and kind of squish it down with iron till the wax is warmed up. Feel the top portion of the ski to make sure it is warmed up enough, which normally takes 4 or 5 passes. If the wax is smoking it is way too hot, stop and turn it down, though you will need the iron to be hotter then other warmer waxes.
Never hot wax the kick area, use polar wax if you are going to skate, in the kick area.
Let the skis lay in a horizontal position for at least an hour inside, as gravity does it work. Scrape the groove and side of the ski first.
After an hour or so, scrape the base of the skis, then brush scrape a few more times with a plastic scraper. Finish up with a nylon brush, though I like using a horse hair brush. There are combo brushes of various kinds that you can buy at the local store.
Now onto the kick area. Crayon some base wax like Swix VG35 or Toko Green and use a clean iron or hair dryer to warm it up and cork it in. It is a good idea to have some specific corks for klister, base wax, hard wax and soft wax. Apply the wax of the day, which in this case last night was green.
If you have new skis, I recommend hot waxing after every ski, as a base guideline for the first 8-10 skis. You want to get all the little micro holes filled up with wax. A wax box is supposed to do this as well, but I am not sure about that.
If you want, you can leave the skis outside, to cool before a final scrape/brushing as the cold will squish out a bit more wax as the base contracts.
Waxing can become, Very Expensive, if you let it. However around the #yeg area you can get away with a cost of less then a $150.
A few kick waxes, base binder, universal glider, universal silver klister, some baggies, ski wax remover, scraper or two, fibertex, some corks, a roll of blue paper towels, hair dryer and an old iron will suffice.
I can normally do my skis during commercials of a one hour TV program. :)
Not sure what wax to use? Read directions on the cannister or download the app from Swix, turn on the WiFi, and it will get locate you and the weather where you are, for simple or advanced waxing. The app now has the directions in English, though not the videos which are still in Norwegian. snow
As a rough rule of thumb wax at least 4 degrees warmer as the thee snow gets old and the tracks get skied in.
Go ski a click or two and have your wax tested before class starts.
Go out and ski, and have FUN.
The glide area did not have any storage wax on it. Oh no!! haha. (Do as I say not as I do.)
So use some ski wax remover, and clean both glide area and kick area. Use a plastic scraper to scrape wax off in kick area before using wax remover. There are many wax companies like Swix and Toko that show you how to do this, or find it on YouTube.
Roughen up the area under the kick area with some silicon 100+/- grit sand paper and clean the kick area again.
Make sure you wait 20 minutes for the properties of the wax remover, to evaporate.
Fibertex using several passes, from tip to tail on the glide areas. Hot wax the glide area area with the appropriate wax of the day, which was Swix CH4 last night. That wax is brittle, so keep your mouth closed and and kind of squish it down with iron till the wax is warmed up. Feel the top portion of the ski to make sure it is warmed up enough, which normally takes 4 or 5 passes. If the wax is smoking it is way too hot, stop and turn it down, though you will need the iron to be hotter then other warmer waxes.
Never hot wax the kick area, use polar wax if you are going to skate, in the kick area.
Let the skis lay in a horizontal position for at least an hour inside, as gravity does it work. Scrape the groove and side of the ski first.
After an hour or so, scrape the base of the skis, then brush scrape a few more times with a plastic scraper. Finish up with a nylon brush, though I like using a horse hair brush. There are combo brushes of various kinds that you can buy at the local store.
Now onto the kick area. Crayon some base wax like Swix VG35 or Toko Green and use a clean iron or hair dryer to warm it up and cork it in. It is a good idea to have some specific corks for klister, base wax, hard wax and soft wax. Apply the wax of the day, which in this case last night was green.
If you have new skis, I recommend hot waxing after every ski, as a base guideline for the first 8-10 skis. You want to get all the little micro holes filled up with wax. A wax box is supposed to do this as well, but I am not sure about that.
If you want, you can leave the skis outside, to cool before a final scrape/brushing as the cold will squish out a bit more wax as the base contracts.
Waxing can become, Very Expensive, if you let it. However around the #yeg area you can get away with a cost of less then a $150.
A few kick waxes, base binder, universal glider, universal silver klister, some baggies, ski wax remover, scraper or two, fibertex, some corks, a roll of blue paper towels, hair dryer and an old iron will suffice.
I can normally do my skis during commercials of a one hour TV program. :)
Not sure what wax to use? Read directions on the cannister or download the app from Swix, turn on the WiFi, and it will get locate you and the weather where you are, for simple or advanced waxing. The app now has the directions in English, though not the videos which are still in Norwegian. snow
As a rough rule of thumb wax at least 4 degrees warmer as the thee snow gets old and the tracks get skied in.
Go ski a click or two and have your wax tested before class starts.
Go out and ski, and have FUN.
Nordic Skiing Class notes, Adding poles to Diagonal skiing
As you all know it was very cold, around -40c with wind chill, for the past few days with lots of snow.
Class temperature was fine with -18C, close to the trees, and out of the wind.
Last nights class was about a half hour of skiing, and then a wax clinic.
After reviewing last weeks skiing where you were classical skiing with no poles, you finally had the poles added.
Remember once again that "POLES ARE FOR PUSH, not for balance.
Your arms and legs work in opposites. (ie right ski forward, left arm forward)
Pull down on the pole straps and do not grip the pole handle tightly. Be sure to have the pole straps adjusted properly, which will vary depending on the mitts/gloves you are using.
Some of you had to be reminded that the pole baskets plant close to your weighted foot, and only about 10cm away from the ski track on the opposite side. At times I have put my pole tips into my skis, many decades ago, as I practiced keeping the pole baskets planting close. I still keep some nail polish(pink) in the wax kit, for filling in a ski pole hole or for marking a wax pocket. (LOL)
Tripoding is wasted movement and energy, that is not all going forward. Hands should be shoulder width apart, with a elbows slightly wider, depending on how strong your rotator cuff muscles are. Be careful and gradually widen your elbows over time. Your pole baskets should NOT be planted really wide, the baskets do not swing forward past your hand, but should always be angled backwards when you plant.
Look in the snow where the pole tracks are, and you will get a better idea as to where you are planting your pole baskets. Get a coach or friend to watch as well, if you want.
Your reach forward with the poles, from the rotating shoulder, as you bring the elbow from the trunk, forward, at around 90 degrees. Normally you can get at least a fist in between your chest and elbow, as you reach forward. After loading poles with a slight drop of body weight, your LATS come into play, driving the poles down and backwards, with elbows staying bent and the hands coming to about your hip bone, before it is time to reach forward again. You should feel a pull in the chest muscles as well. This is where all those pull-ups that you have done during the summer will be evident. :)
There should be next to NO triceps being used.
Try to remember your pole assisted glide.
Naturally all this arm motion will need to be coordinated, with well balanced legs. :)
If all goes well we will be doing the single kick double pole, which is hard to master, if you do not have the double pole and the classical ski, mastered well.
Till next time.
Have FUN, go ski.
Class temperature was fine with -18C, close to the trees, and out of the wind.
Last nights class was about a half hour of skiing, and then a wax clinic.
After reviewing last weeks skiing where you were classical skiing with no poles, you finally had the poles added.
Remember once again that "POLES ARE FOR PUSH, not for balance.
Your arms and legs work in opposites. (ie right ski forward, left arm forward)
Pull down on the pole straps and do not grip the pole handle tightly. Be sure to have the pole straps adjusted properly, which will vary depending on the mitts/gloves you are using.
Some of you had to be reminded that the pole baskets plant close to your weighted foot, and only about 10cm away from the ski track on the opposite side. At times I have put my pole tips into my skis, many decades ago, as I practiced keeping the pole baskets planting close. I still keep some nail polish(pink) in the wax kit, for filling in a ski pole hole or for marking a wax pocket. (LOL)
Tripoding is wasted movement and energy, that is not all going forward. Hands should be shoulder width apart, with a elbows slightly wider, depending on how strong your rotator cuff muscles are. Be careful and gradually widen your elbows over time. Your pole baskets should NOT be planted really wide, the baskets do not swing forward past your hand, but should always be angled backwards when you plant.
Look in the snow where the pole tracks are, and you will get a better idea as to where you are planting your pole baskets. Get a coach or friend to watch as well, if you want.
Your reach forward with the poles, from the rotating shoulder, as you bring the elbow from the trunk, forward, at around 90 degrees. Normally you can get at least a fist in between your chest and elbow, as you reach forward. After loading poles with a slight drop of body weight, your LATS come into play, driving the poles down and backwards, with elbows staying bent and the hands coming to about your hip bone, before it is time to reach forward again. You should feel a pull in the chest muscles as well. This is where all those pull-ups that you have done during the summer will be evident. :)
There should be next to NO triceps being used.
Try to remember your pole assisted glide.
Naturally all this arm motion will need to be coordinated, with well balanced legs. :)
If all goes well we will be doing the single kick double pole, which is hard to master, if you do not have the double pole and the classical ski, mastered well.
Till next time.
Have FUN, go ski.
Monday, November 24, 2014
#Nordic skiing and #waxing the kick pocket, of a classic ski.
During the last 2 classes we began to try and understand waxing.
Help what wax should I use, is always a question skiers ask one another. Flouro carbons, or hydro carbon kick waxes will be a decision you need to make. Dollars speak a lot in this area.
First you need to know the wax pocket, that has been suggested by those before you, from the factory, or if it was bought new from the store. We are assuming that the skis are a double cambered ski. Too stiff a ski and you will not be able to use the wax for grip, and too soft a ski it will drag and you will lose your wax.
Clean the wax pocket if needed. Adjust the wax pocket if wax is wearing off in the front or rear of the wax pocket. You will likely need to shorten the wax pocket, a couple inches forward ahead of the heel plate.
After using some sand paper in the wax pocket and cleaning it, its time to wax for the snow conditions.
What are some of the factors that will influence your choice of wax? Temperature, humidity, sun, cloud, wind, how old the snow is, hilliness of terrain, firmness of track, how skied in are the tracks, thickness of wax still on, length of ski, stiffness of ski, are just a few factors that you need to take into account.
Now lets check your wax after skiing for a km or so. Put all your weight on one ski without moving the ski and lift it up. You will see the snow sticking under the foot of the ski. Now take your gloved finger and try to brush the snow off. If it comes off too easy, then you either need a warmer wax, or another layer of the wax you just used. If you really need to brush the snow off hard, then clean the snow off and put a slightly colder wax over top.
When applying wax you need to put the wax on in thin layers with no chunks or blobs. Now take your synthetic cork and cork it smooth. Nice long strong smooth strokes works well. Natural cork goes with natural wood by the way. You will likely get some wax in the groove and so smooth that out. Bring the wax from under the heel back into the wax pocket with your cork.
Make sure that there are no lumps or wavy wax under the kick area.
Yourself, significant other, friend or coach will need to learn your waxing preference. Some skiers like slightly slippery skis and some like a lot of grip.
Experiment as to how you like your grip.
Now get out there and have an awesome ski and be sure to have FUN!
Help what wax should I use, is always a question skiers ask one another. Flouro carbons, or hydro carbon kick waxes will be a decision you need to make. Dollars speak a lot in this area.
First you need to know the wax pocket, that has been suggested by those before you, from the factory, or if it was bought new from the store. We are assuming that the skis are a double cambered ski. Too stiff a ski and you will not be able to use the wax for grip, and too soft a ski it will drag and you will lose your wax.
Clean the wax pocket if needed. Adjust the wax pocket if wax is wearing off in the front or rear of the wax pocket. You will likely need to shorten the wax pocket, a couple inches forward ahead of the heel plate.
After using some sand paper in the wax pocket and cleaning it, its time to wax for the snow conditions.
What are some of the factors that will influence your choice of wax? Temperature, humidity, sun, cloud, wind, how old the snow is, hilliness of terrain, firmness of track, how skied in are the tracks, thickness of wax still on, length of ski, stiffness of ski, are just a few factors that you need to take into account.
Now lets check your wax after skiing for a km or so. Put all your weight on one ski without moving the ski and lift it up. You will see the snow sticking under the foot of the ski. Now take your gloved finger and try to brush the snow off. If it comes off too easy, then you either need a warmer wax, or another layer of the wax you just used. If you really need to brush the snow off hard, then clean the snow off and put a slightly colder wax over top.
When applying wax you need to put the wax on in thin layers with no chunks or blobs. Now take your synthetic cork and cork it smooth. Nice long strong smooth strokes works well. Natural cork goes with natural wood by the way. You will likely get some wax in the groove and so smooth that out. Bring the wax from under the heel back into the wax pocket with your cork.
Make sure that there are no lumps or wavy wax under the kick area.
Yourself, significant other, friend or coach will need to learn your waxing preference. Some skiers like slightly slippery skis and some like a lot of grip.
Experiment as to how you like your grip.
Now get out there and have an awesome ski and be sure to have FUN!
Nordic Skiing Beginning Steps of how to #Ski Diagonal
For those of you that missed the last class, lets do a quick review.
We started with learning how to wax our skis. Reminder to put 3 or 4 thin layers and cork it out well between each layer. There should normally be no bumps or waves of wax, and you can see this by holding the skis up to the light of the sun, moon, or indoor light.
Most people last night used Swix V50 otherwise known as blue extra.
We did a few quick quick ski exercises of doing pizza/pie ie tips together/apart. This kept everyone moving while the stranglers joined the class.
Once out in the open flat area, we started class with just your right ski on, scootering along on the snow for just a few minutes, and then switched to the left ski.
Next came a step, push, and gliiide on just your right ski. Body position had just a very slight lean forward all the time, with the left foot swinging up near the tip and push. While pushing with the left foot that had no ski on the right ski was momentarily lifted off the ground. You push and gliiide. Hold the trailing leg that has no ski on it, in a natural bent straight leg behind you while you are gliiiding. The trailing leg then swings down, plants and then pushes off again. This was done for several minutes. Switch ski again and try it again for several minutes with the left leg.
The next exercise began with right ski and right pole on. The pole is used to extend your gliiiide even further. Keep the forward lean and do not dab with your left foot to keep your balance, but hold the naturally straight trailing leg behind you when gliding.Then switch to left ski and left pole. Practice for several minutes on each side.
Normally about 80% of the time, skier's balance is better on the right side.
We also repeated the mantra, Poles are for Push, not for balance!!
Next exercise started with both skis on. We imagined that the left ski was the push ski, and the right ski was the glide ski. It kind of looked like a person with a limp, known as gluump! Switch to the right ski as the pushing ski and the left ski as the gliding. Practice each side for several minutes.
Next exercise consisted of skiing without poles. Each ski swings down near the tip or at least in front of the weighted ski. You should both hear and feel the wax grab under your foot.
This where those who are ski shufflers, and those with poor wax reveal their weaknesses.
There was one more exercise that was tried, and that was for skiers to stand in place running, with their skis on. The key to this exercise is not to lift the knees but to have the knee and leg go back naturally straight. You then start taking little steps leaning forward. Keep leaning forward and then run with a glide. This exercise results in some skiers naturally showing a good weight shift.
Then they went back to skiing with no poles.
Let's talk about the arms movement for just a moment. Arm swing is opposite to the other ski. Arm swing is from the shoulder with elbows bent at around 90 degrees both forward and back.
Class, came in and stretched and that was a wrap.
Those that wanted to, then drove 4 minutes or so and hit the local city hot tub, steam room and pool. :)
We started with learning how to wax our skis. Reminder to put 3 or 4 thin layers and cork it out well between each layer. There should normally be no bumps or waves of wax, and you can see this by holding the skis up to the light of the sun, moon, or indoor light.
Most people last night used Swix V50 otherwise known as blue extra.
We did a few quick quick ski exercises of doing pizza/pie ie tips together/apart. This kept everyone moving while the stranglers joined the class.
Once out in the open flat area, we started class with just your right ski on, scootering along on the snow for just a few minutes, and then switched to the left ski.
Next came a step, push, and gliiide on just your right ski. Body position had just a very slight lean forward all the time, with the left foot swinging up near the tip and push. While pushing with the left foot that had no ski on the right ski was momentarily lifted off the ground. You push and gliiide. Hold the trailing leg that has no ski on it, in a natural bent straight leg behind you while you are gliiiding. The trailing leg then swings down, plants and then pushes off again. This was done for several minutes. Switch ski again and try it again for several minutes with the left leg.
The next exercise began with right ski and right pole on. The pole is used to extend your gliiiide even further. Keep the forward lean and do not dab with your left foot to keep your balance, but hold the naturally straight trailing leg behind you when gliding.Then switch to left ski and left pole. Practice for several minutes on each side.
Normally about 80% of the time, skier's balance is better on the right side.
We also repeated the mantra, Poles are for Push, not for balance!!
Next exercise started with both skis on. We imagined that the left ski was the push ski, and the right ski was the glide ski. It kind of looked like a person with a limp, known as gluump! Switch to the right ski as the pushing ski and the left ski as the gliding. Practice each side for several minutes.
Next exercise consisted of skiing without poles. Each ski swings down near the tip or at least in front of the weighted ski. You should both hear and feel the wax grab under your foot.
This where those who are ski shufflers, and those with poor wax reveal their weaknesses.
There was one more exercise that was tried, and that was for skiers to stand in place running, with their skis on. The key to this exercise is not to lift the knees but to have the knee and leg go back naturally straight. You then start taking little steps leaning forward. Keep leaning forward and then run with a glide. This exercise results in some skiers naturally showing a good weight shift.
Then they went back to skiing with no poles.
Let's talk about the arms movement for just a moment. Arm swing is opposite to the other ski. Arm swing is from the shoulder with elbows bent at around 90 degrees both forward and back.
Class, came in and stretched and that was a wrap.
Those that wanted to, then drove 4 minutes or so and hit the local city hot tub, steam room and pool. :)
Tuesday, November 18, 2014
Nordic Skiing Fall and the first on snow ski class of the fall season
Finally the snow is here, but compressed, there is way less then an inch of snow.
We started with the very basic lowest gear that is normally done on skis, and that was the side step.
After the side step, a side step with a hop was the next exercise. When doing the hopping side step, both skis are in the air, for just a second.
Next up was the running diagonal side step.
From there the herringbone was used both going up on a flat ski and then on an edged ski. Remember an edged ski wears off wax quicker then a flat ski, only edge if you have to.
Next up in an area of about 5 metres wide, going up the hill in groups of 3; the exercise consisted of 2 people doing the running diagonal side and one person in the middle doing the herringbone side by side.
Next was double-poling on a slight uphill, and then double-poling with a hop uphill, with a strong concentration of bringing the hips ahead of ankles, crunch, drop and collapse at the knees, with next to no bending at the waist, hands shoulder width apart with elbows wider then the hands, and planting your ski baskets close to your skis.
On the downhill side we looked at side step downhill, then your body position of downhill running in the ready position, and half a snow plow on very slight downhill slope.
And that was about it.
An excellent effort was made by all. If your core hurts, great. If your triceps hurt, then you did not do the exercise correctly. If your shoulders hurt, then your elbows were too high, be careful. If your back hurts, then you were arching your back and not falling forward onto your skis as your poles were planted.
Your homework before next weeks class, is to do at least 3-5 hours of ski specific training.
See you next week. Have FUN out there, and it is time to for another snow dance too.
We started with the very basic lowest gear that is normally done on skis, and that was the side step.
After the side step, a side step with a hop was the next exercise. When doing the hopping side step, both skis are in the air, for just a second.
Next up was the running diagonal side step.
From there the herringbone was used both going up on a flat ski and then on an edged ski. Remember an edged ski wears off wax quicker then a flat ski, only edge if you have to.
Next up in an area of about 5 metres wide, going up the hill in groups of 3; the exercise consisted of 2 people doing the running diagonal side and one person in the middle doing the herringbone side by side.
Next was double-poling on a slight uphill, and then double-poling with a hop uphill, with a strong concentration of bringing the hips ahead of ankles, crunch, drop and collapse at the knees, with next to no bending at the waist, hands shoulder width apart with elbows wider then the hands, and planting your ski baskets close to your skis.
On the downhill side we looked at side step downhill, then your body position of downhill running in the ready position, and half a snow plow on very slight downhill slope.
And that was about it.
An excellent effort was made by all. If your core hurts, great. If your triceps hurt, then you did not do the exercise correctly. If your shoulders hurt, then your elbows were too high, be careful. If your back hurts, then you were arching your back and not falling forward onto your skis as your poles were planted.
Your homework before next weeks class, is to do at least 3-5 hours of ski specific training.
See you next week. Have FUN out there, and it is time to for another snow dance too.
Tuesday, October 28, 2014
Ski season of 2014-2015 almost upon some of us!
The snow has come for 24 hours and then melted again. Specific dryland training a person can do only for so long.
September and October are very important months for heavy duty training both aerobically and for developing strength. Your power to weight ratio will make it easier skiing, so now is the time.
Injuries are something that most of us have to deal with sometime in our athletic life. As we get older some of us think we are still young and we push too hard. Our bodies do not recover nearly as quickly as when we were younger. Older athletes tend not take the time to work into an activity. We try to push through and sometimes it bites us in the butt.
Mental discipline and mental strength are two key areas that the older athlete should be utilizing.
So whatever sport you are doing this winter always push hard but leave something in reserve for the next season and and the next year and the next decade. Be sure that the fun factor remains a key ingredient in your sport!
September and October are very important months for heavy duty training both aerobically and for developing strength. Your power to weight ratio will make it easier skiing, so now is the time.
Injuries are something that most of us have to deal with sometime in our athletic life. As we get older some of us think we are still young and we push too hard. Our bodies do not recover nearly as quickly as when we were younger. Older athletes tend not take the time to work into an activity. We try to push through and sometimes it bites us in the butt.
Mental discipline and mental strength are two key areas that the older athlete should be utilizing.
So whatever sport you are doing this winter always push hard but leave something in reserve for the next season and and the next year and the next decade. Be sure that the fun factor remains a key ingredient in your sport!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)